We are currently in the process of selecting new foam for these pads. We will have these back in stock once all testing is complete. The new foam will be open-cell and less dense. Basically, they will more closely match the original KeyTronic foam which will make the keys feel and behave like the originals!
Our blog post about why this is happening can be found here:
We have recently upgraded to a new capacitive material, aluminum plated Mylar. If you purchased pads from us prior to this change please read all about our KeyTronic foam pad saga in our blog post found here. If your pads are a blue like hue and not highly reflective, like foil, then you have some of our old pads. Please don’t hesitate to contact us after reading our blog post if you have had difficulty with these old pads!
This set of 100 count foam capacitive pads plus 2 double height pads is for repairing vintage KeyTronic keyboards with deteriorating foam pads. These are homemade in house and the 100 should cover what you need with a few extras for your convenience. The 2 double height pads are for use with those keyboards that have deeper set keys such as the mechanical Caps Lock key found on the Apple Lisa. These will work on keyboards for many different kinds of vintage computers. If it has a Keytronic keyboard it is likely it has pads inside which are disintegrating and in need of replacement. Even if you have only a few keys not functioning it is likely the rest will start to go soon. It’s just a matter of time before that foam starts falling apart. I highly recommend replacing them all while you have your keyboard apart so you can get many more years of use with no worries.
Here is a list of some computers which have the Keytronic style contact foam mylar pads: Apple Lisa 1 and 2, Compaq Portable, Compaq Deskpro 286 AT keyboard, Compaq Enhanced Keyboard, Curvus Concept, DEC, Franklin Ace 1000/1100/1200, GenRad, IBM PCjr (some), Kaypro II, Key Tronic Model F clone series, Machintosh XL, Mainframe Terminals (some), Miniterm 1203, Northstar Advantage, Sirius 1, Sol-20, Sol-220, SUN Type 4, Tandberg Data TDV 2115C, Tandy TRS-80, Tektronix 4107, Unisys F420800, Victor 9000, Visual Technology 1050, Wang. While I’m not certain that this list is complete, it’s a good start!
The foam we use is more dense than the original foam that was used so many years ago. Therefore, it will feel a little different than the original foam. However, the keys will work great and this foam will have a longer overall life than that of the foam that is so prone to disintegration over the years.
I have prepared a quick video demonstrating how to replace one pad in your keyboard. Please note: I failed to mention in my video that it is easiest to have the key pressed (well raised in this case as you are looking at the back of the keyboard) when changing the pad. In my video I have it propped up on a pen so that the key is raised. This makes it easier to get the dental pick in the groves and around the pads. Another thing I have run across is that sometimes there is some corrosion or cloudiness on the actual board itself. Sometimes simply taking a pencil eraser and rubbing it on the conductive pad on the board will clear that right up. Other times, like in cases of corrosion, cleaning with rubbing alcohol or PCB cleaner if you have it on hand will be necessary. I have had a customer use 98% rubbing alcohol and then use Brasso to remove corrosion. These pads are designed to work properly with a fully functional keyboard. These pads will not fix previously non-functioning keys due to severe surface corrosion that cannot be repaired by cleaning, or other problems with your keyboard.
When you test your pads after replacing them all be sure to put all the screws back in the board, not just a few of them. You don’t need to put the shell back on, but all screws do need to be in the board or all the pads may not make contact properly during your test. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact us and we will answer it as soon as possible.